Garage Door adjustments
All common and some uncommon door adjustments are listed
here.
Garage Door rubbing against
opening:
Ok for this you must know the specifications for your
common garage door adjustments.
- Between the garage door and track you
should have a space the size of your index finger on both
sides from about 1 foot all the way up the door (next to
the bottom it can be a little bit tighter. If it is not
loosen the lags attached and kick the track out a little
until you obtain the proper adjustment.
- Between the garage door and the wall,
if it is rubbing than you must adjust the 7/16" nut on the
side.. loosen the nuts on the jamb brackets then pull the
door out a little. usually I shake the door to check that
it can move freely in the opening and then if not I adjust
the necessary jamb bracket. on top you can adjust the
horizontal track by loosening the two nuts where the
horizontal and vertices meet, then stick your hammer
between the jamb and the horizontal track with a prying
motion, this will give you enough leverage to tighten
it down there wise you would have to "literally
dismount the track from the ceiling" which is way to
much work.
- An unbalanced door will feel heavy or too
light when it is in the manual mode, If it is to
light you might have the wrong garage door
springs or the spring is just too tight. There
should be about 7.5 full turns on each spring for a 7 foot
door... 1 foot per foot of door height and .5 turns
for cable tension on top. If the springs relaxed a little
bit over time you might add a quarter turn to a half of a
turn on each spring to achieve a good balance. Good
balance, means that your garage door seems weightless when
it is opened and closed.
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