Garage Door adjustments
All common and some uncommon door adjustments are listed here.
Garage Door rubbing against opening:
Ok for this you must know the specifications for your common garage door adjustments.
- Between the garage door and track you should have a space the size of your index finger on
both sides from about 1 foot all the way up the door (next to the bottom it can be a little bit tighter. If it
is not loosen the lags attached and kick the track out a little until you obtain the proper adjustment.
- Between the garage door and the wall, if it is rubbing than you must adjust the 7/16" nut
on the side.. loosen the nuts on the jamb brackets then pull the door out a little. usually I shake the door to
check that it can move freely in the opening and then if not I adjust the necessary jamb bracket. on top you
can adjust the horizontal track by loosening the two nuts where the horizontal and vertices meet, then stick
your hammer between the jamb and the horizontal track with a prying motion, this will give you enough leverage
to tighten it down there wise you would have to "literally dismount the track from the
ceiling" which is way to much work.
- An unbalanced door will feel heavy or too light when it is in the manual mode, If it
is to light you might have the wrong garage door springs or
the spring is just too tight. There should be about 7.5 full turns on each spring for a 7 foot door... 1
foot per foot of door height and .5 turns for cable tension on top. If the springs relaxed a little bit over
time you might add a quarter turn to a half of a turn on each spring to achieve a good balance. Good balance,
means that your garage door seems weightless when it is opened and closed.
- A garage door that is too heavy or light can be fixed by adjusting the spring 1-2 full turns up for
tightening down for loosening...